How to Foil Fabric and Clothing
Jennifer FergusonFoil on a t-shirt, jeans or a jacket takes a different process than foil on furniture. On fabric, heat does the work: you put down a fabric adhesive, lay the foil on top, and press it with an iron or heat press. This guide covers which foil and adhesive to use, the steps, and how to wash what you make.
Step 1: Pick a foil that works on fabric
Not every foil holds on fabric. Each foil's product page has a Fabric line: look for "Works on fabric." Foils marked "Hard surfaces only" won't hold. To see only the ones that work, browse Textile Foils.
Step 2: Choose your adhesive
- FABRIC Foil Adhesive: made for shirts, jeans and other garments. There's no dry time: apply it, place the foil right away, and iron. It dries with a soft, vinyl-like feel. Not for hats.
- Deco Foil Transfer Gel DUO: brush or stencil it on, let it dry clear (45 to 90 minutes), then heat-set. Also works on cardstock with no heat. Gel Duo guide (PDF)
- Heat Transfer Vinyl Adhesive (HTVA): for words and designs cut on a vinyl cutter like a Cricut or Silhouette. HTVA instructions (PDF)
- Fusible Spray Adhesive: spray through a stencil for crisp designs. Spray instructions (PDF)
- Deco Foil Liquid Adhesive: a squeeze bottle for lines and freehand designs. No heat needed. Liquid Adhesive instructions (PDF)
Step 3: Set up
- Work on a hard, flat surface. Firm pressure gives the best release.
- Smooth out the fabric where you'll foil.
- Using a stencil? Spray the back with repositionable stencil spray and tape around it, so adhesive only goes in the openings. Clean the stencil as soon as you lift it.
Step 4: Apply the adhesive and foil
These steps are for FABRIC Foil Adhesive. For the others, follow their instructions above for dry times and heat.
- Apply the adhesive to your design.
- Lay the foil over it right away, pattern side up. Cut the piece a little larger than the design.
- Lay parchment paper over the foil if you'd like.
- Iron on medium heat, about 300 to 325°F, for 30 to 60 seconds. Keep the iron moving the whole time and press firmly. Push a little harder over seams and stitching.
Step 5: Let it cool, then peel
Fabric foil is a cold peel. Let it cool completely on its own before you lift the carrier sheet, and don't put it in the fridge or freezer to speed things up. If a spot didn't transfer, lay the foil back down, iron again, and let it cool again before you peel.
Washing
- Turn the garment inside out.
- Wash in cold water on the delicate cycle.
- Line dry. No dryer.
- Don't iron directly over the foil.
With HTVA, let the project cure for several days before the first wash.
A few tips
- Every iron runs a little different. Start at medium so you don't melt the foil, and test on scrap fabric first.
- HTVA doesn't stretch, so use it on shirts that fit well and won't stretch much when worn.
- Foiling a word with HTVA? Mirror the design before you cut it.
Canvas shoes, hats and purses
Stiffer items like canvas shoes, hats and purses use the hard-surface method instead: seal the fabric with Bondago, apply Foil Adhesive, scrub the foil on, and protect it with APS Flexible Topcoat, which bends with the material. See the canvas shoes guide and the Hat Foil Process Guide.
Watch it done
More fabric projects:
- Using Transfer Foils on Jeans
- How to Use Heat Transfer Vinyl Adhesive with Clothes
- Custom Foiled Jean Jacket: stenciled with spray adhesive
Foiling with the spray adhesive and a stencil: